Hardwood Floor Finishing , coatings for Hardwood Flooring, Why we use Glitsa Swedish Finish the Conversion Varnish  floor coating protection and beauty in one ©AHF-All Hardwood  Floor Ltd.™

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        The Glitsa™ line of Hardwood floor products have tremendously help me build this company giving us the ability to offer phenomenal durability performance and beauty to our customers. I have been using these floor coating products for over thirty years and I can tell you first hand that they do last better than everything else in floor coating industry and are unique amongst the sixteen other manufactures of conversion varnish floor coatings........... The nicest soft subtle looking as the floor finish wears!       Not convinced yet ?  read more.....

Swedish formulated Gold Seal Finishes have been the benchmark of excellence that no other finish has matched. The Gold Seal System provides a unique combination of durability, scratch and scuff resistance, clarity, and grain definition. The Gold Seal System also provides unsurpassed beauty by bringing out the natural colors of your

In addition to our signature Swedish finishes, Glitsa offers quality Waterborne and oil-modified polyurethane finishes to our customers as well. Please check inside our website to view all of our wood floor finish systems and wood floor maintenance products.

     Glitsa ™     brand  is a manufacture of state of the art Floor coatings there product line includes    :

 Swedish Finish which is a conversion varnish ,          GLITSA Website

Glitsa Swedish finish Gold Seal system is three component  BACCA ™( two component under coating  grade hardener) and the gold seal top coat contains different solvents than the Bacca under coating.

a single component water borne called Infinity ∏ ™     labeled Low V.O.C.( volatile organic compound or component ) which can be fortified with an additional  resin.

 Also two component water borne  finishes  titled:

 Glitsa Self  Seal ™ a cross linking  formula and Glitsa Max ™  a catalyzed  formula            Glitsa SC ™        Glitsa TruSeal ™

Gold Seal Stains :

Antique Brown | Coffee | Cordovan |  Golden Brown | Golden Harvest | Medium Brown | Neutral | Nutmeg | Sable Black | Spice Brown |

   Pastels:    Taupe | Whisper Gray | White  

Glitsa recommends

Swedish formulated Gold Seal Finishes have been the benchmark of excellence that no other finish has matched. The Gold Seal System provides a unique combination of durability, scratch and scuff resistance, clarity, and grain definition. The Gold Seal System also provides unsurpassed beauty by bringing out the natural colors of your

In addition to our signature Swedish finishes, Glitsa offers quality Waterborne and oil-modified polyurethane finishes to our customers as well. Please check inside our website to view all of our wood floor finish systems and wood floor maintenance products.

Dust Mop

Use Glitsa's untreated mop with Dust Pad on your floor regularly. This will keep the sand and grit off of your floor that may cause premature wear. Throw rugs that are cleaned on a regular basis are recommended in front of your kitchen sink and at each outside door.

Cleaning

Wipe up food and other spills immediately using a dampened (not soaking wet) Cleaning Pad on the Glitsa Mop or paper towel. Regular cleaning should be done with Glitsa Clean which is specially formulated to clean your Glitsa finished floor. Follow directions on the bottle for correct application. Glitsa Clean is available through your flooring contractor.

Preventive Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance may be the most important factor in determining the longevity of your wood floor finish.

Place walk off mats in entry ways and near sink areas to minimize the amount of dirt and water that comes in contact with your floor.

Check your chair legs and other pieces of furniture and attach Safeglides Felt Floor Protectors to all furniture that will come in contact with your wood floor.

Keep high heel shoes in good repair. Heels that have lost their protective cap can cause little indentations in any floor surface, even concrete!

Keep pet claws trimmed.

Do not over-water plants. Soil, fertilizers, and plant foods may have chemicals in them that could damage your Glitsa finish.

Soft rubber (shoe soles, toy wheels, etc.) will leave marks on the floor. Most of these marks can be rubbed out, but should be avoided if possible.

        Purchase Glitsa products     

Glitsa Swedish finish is time honored of over sixty years widely used and trusted.

SURFACE FINISHES  Description - These finishes remain on

the surface of the floor and form a protective coating.

Polyurethane, “Swedish Finish”, Moisture Cured

Urethane, and Water Based Urethanes to name a few

are blends of synthetic resins, plasticizers, and other

film-forming ingredients. All are durable, moisture resistant

finishes. These finishes are generally

available in high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin and matte,

except moisture cured urethane. Any one of them is a

good choice for a kitchen where there is exposure to

water splashing or spills.

Oil Modified Polyurethane is generally the most

common surface finish. It is durable and moisture resistant,

and generally the easiest to apply. This type

finish tends to amber significantly as it ages.

Water based finishes (Urethane and/or Acrylic combinations)

Single components and two components

These are opaque, durable, non-yellowing

and are non-flammable at time of application. They

generally have advantages similar to Oil Modified

Urethanes without the odor of mineral spirits, and

they dry much faster.

Moisture Cure urethanes are harder and more

moisture resistant than the other surface finishes and

are generally available only in gloss. They cure by

absorbing minute quantities of moisture from the air,

which causes them to dry and harden. Relative

humidity is critical to the curing process. Follow manufacturer’s

directions. These finishes are extremely

difficult to apply properly and are best left to the professional.

“Swedish Finishes” (Acid Cure Urethanes)Conversion Varnishes are most

durable finishes, generally harder than polyurethanes.

They are clear, fast drying and resist yellowing. 

When using a Glitsa ™brush to apply a surface finish, work

in the direction of the boards in a path narrow

enough to keep a wet edge. Lap strokes back into

area just covered.

of undercoat, wet edge working time is three minutes

, number of coats, and other

factors are all critical and make application difficult.

These finishes should be applied ONLY by the highly

Skilled Hardwood floor professional craftsmen

If a SURFACE FINISH is to be applied (i.e.

Polyurethane, Water Based Urethane, etc.) after the

application of stain and sealer, be sure the floors are

completely dry. Follow by buffing the sealed floor with

#1 steel wool, a buffing pad or a fine screen and completely

vacuum up residue and remove fine particles with A Glitsa™  micro fibre tack rage

NOTE: If water based urethane is to be applied

NEVER use steel wool. Steel fibers rust on

contact with water and will leave purple flecks as the steel oxidizes in water and  will discolor the finish.

Use an abrasive nylon screen or fiber buffing Maroon Scotchbrite™  pad

Oil Modified Polyurethane APPLICATION.

Follow manufacturer’s instructions and safety recommendations.

Turn off open flames (don’t forget pilot

lights) and shut off AC/heating units, if recommended.

Stir material well but avoid bubbles. Pour into clean

paint tray or bucket. Apply to flooring with brush or

lambs wool applicator. Start application along one

edge of the room with the direction of the flooring.

Cut in at the wall with a paint brush. Apply

Polyurethane along the length of the starting wall in

a strip you can easily reach across.

Brushing. Fill 1/3 of brush with finish, dab off excess

drip, apply a liberal amount with smooth even strokes

along the grain. Watch out for splattering. Do not

over-brush which will introduce bubbles. Work from

where finish has not been applied into the area that

is still wet, feathering out the lapped areas.

Applicator. Fill applicator with finish, dab off excess

drip, and apply across the strip direction in short

strokes, working toward previously wet area.

Straighten cross strokes with a single gliding stroke

along strip direction, feathering into previously applied

wet area and lifting the applicator up.

Fig.

Apply finish in parallel strips across the room. Always

maintain a “wet” edge. Don’t retouch missed areas

(holidays) if finish has begun to skim over. The next

coat will fill these areas. Allow to dry overnight.

When dry walk over the floor, especially perimeter

exterior walls and feel corners. If the finish sounds

or feels tacky it is not dry. WAIT FOR IT TO DRY.

Buff the completely dry finish with #2 steel wool pad

or a used 120 grit screen, or hand sand with 120 to

150 grit sandpaper.

NOTE: If finish does not powder when buffing,

additional drying time is recommended. Tacky

finish residue can knot up and accumulate on

the buffing wool, screen, or sandpaper and

scratch the finish.

Merely dull all the finish. Don’t forget to hand sand

or steel wool corners and edges. Too much buffing

removes finish material to the extent the sealer/stain

is exposed or removed. 

Vacuum up all dust. Tack floors with a lint-free

towel (wrapped around a bristle broom) and slightly

dampened with water or 100% mineral spirits. Let

floor dry completely.

Apply second coat. A third coat may be desired for

increased protection and durability. Buff between

coats to dull the surface.

Water Based Urethane APPLICATION. Follow

manufacturer’s instructions. Turn off AC or Heating

units, if recommended. Pay particular attention to

coverage figures, open time, and when-to-buff

instructions. Use catalyst, if required, stir in and let

stand if recommended. Pour finish into non-metal tray

or bucket. Apply to flooring with brush recommended

for water based materials, paint pad, or manufacturer

supplied applicator.

Most water based materials are applied by pouring

a “small river” along the starting wall near the “cut in”

area. The applicator “plows” this material along the

direction of flooring the length of the room with excess

directed toward unfinished area. As finish material

is used, re-pour the “small river” and continue application.

Open doors or use fans to exhaust moisture

laden air when finish films over and is dust free to

facilitate curing. Some manufacturers recommend

buffing the rough raised grain after the first coat.

Some recommend application of a second coat in 3-5

hours without buffing. Follow buffing directions and

use fiber pads or screens. A third coat is generally recommended.

Application of more than two coats

in one day is generally not advised.

NOTE: Do not over-work material. Keep

renewing the small river of material and be sure

to maintain a wet edge in order to avoid gaps

and excessive foaming.

PASTELS :WHITE FLOORS

BLEACHING. Bleaching is generally used to

lighten the natural coloration and subdue the darker

characteristics of flooring. Bleaching is generally

followed with an application of a white or pastel stain.

Application of these products should be done by the

professional. Before using a bleach be sure the flooring

is clean and free from oils, grease, and old finish that

might repel the bleach and give an uneven effect. Use

only bleaches specified for wood flooring and follow

application and drying directions carefully. Some

products need neutralizing after application. Extra

time is required to complete the bleaching process

and allow complete drying.

It’s a good idea to make a test area in an inconspicuous

place, since the length of time the bleach

remains on the floor and the amount used will affect

the degree of color removal. Also, bleaching White

Oak can result in a greenish coloration.

The bleaching process should be done only

once.

A white stain may be applied before the surface

finish. (See TIPS #15) Check that all products are

compatible with the stain and/or sealer used and that

a non-ambering surface finish is used. The final

sanding cut with an 80 grit paper is advised with

white stains. This promotes absorption of the larger

coloring particles of the stain into the flooring. Be

sure the excess stain is wiped from the surface. Follow

by buffing when stain is dry. Stain residue on the

surface of flooring can interfere with adhesion of the

final finish.

NOTE: Seasonal cracks, surface discolorations,

and dirt are VERY noticeable and may be objectionable

in a white floor.

RECONDITIONING

You should first determine what type of finish is on

the floor so appropriate materials can be used.

To determine if a floor was originally finished with

a penetrating seal, scratch the surface with a coin or

other sharp-edge object in a corner or some other

inconspicuous space. If the finish does not flake off,

a penetrating seal was probably used and a reconditioning

product can be applied to restore its original

beauty. TEST AN AREA.

If the finish flakes in the corner, a surface finish

was probably applied to the flooring. Next check for

wax. Wax interferes with intra coat adhesion so recoating

over wax is not recommended. Attempt to

smudge the surface in the same corner with your

finger. If a smudge is evident, wax is probably present

and complete re-sanding and finishing is indicated.

With Surface Finishes which have not been waxed

you can recondition by re-coating if the finish has not

been worn away to expose bare wood.

Penetrating Seal. This sealer soaks into the wood

pores and hardens to seal the floor. It wears only as

the wood wears, will not chip or scratch and is generally

maintained by thin applications of wax. After

years of wear the floor can usually be restored without

sanding by cleaning it and applying another coat of

sealer or a special reconditioning product. Worn areas

can usually be refinished without showing lap marks

when new finish is applied over the old. A penetrating

sealer may also contain stain which colors the wood

while sealing it.

Stain or stain sealer combination. Staining is the

first step in the finishing process if other than a

natural finish is desired. The oil stain with a penetrating

sealer in combination is generally easiest to

apply and accomplishes two things, coloring and

sealing, in one application. Stain only (without sealers)

requires more care with the application in order to

avoid uneven coloration and lap marks. A stain only

generally requires 8 hours or less to dry (Read

directions). The combination products (stain and

sealer) require at least overnight or up to 48+ hours to

dry in stagnant, damp, or humid conditions.

Fast-drying sealers and stains. These products should

be used only by a person who is accustomed to handling

and applying them. The mechanic should be able

to complete the job within the allotted drying time to

avoid lap marks or a splotchy appearance.

With a sealer/wax system, most manufacturers recommend

two coats of a penetrating sealer, then wax.

A reconditioning product is generally available for

use when traffic or other conditions cause discoloration

or wear of the finish. These reconditioning products

restore the floor to its original appearance without

the need for sanding.

With a surface finished system, one coat of sealer

generally followed by two coats of the surface application

produce satisfactory results. FOLLOW THE

MANUFACTURER’S DIRECTIONS.

Application: Stain or penetrating sealer can be

applied by hand wiping with rags, by brushing, or

with a lambs wool applicator. Start application in one

corner along one edge of the room and move with the

direction of the flooring. Use a paint brush to apply

to flooring at wall lines. “Cut in” about 2” or 3” from

walls to avoid smearing moldings. Apply liberally with

rags along the length of the starting wall in a strip

you can reach across.

When using an applicator apply a heavy streak of

material along the grain; leave about one foot of space

from the wall-side application. Go to where this stripe

was started. Do not re-dip; use the excess material to

fill in the empty space, wiping across the grain.

Maintain a uniformly stained area to a particular line

or run of boards across the room.

Distribute material evenly, do not leave puddles or

Fig. 8. Along-handled lamb’s wool applicator is excellent

for applying penetrating seal finishes or pigmented

wiping stains. Spread generously in the direction

of the grain; wipe up excess.

a heavy excess on the surface. Wiping up the excess

can follow almost immediately after the applier moves

away from the corner area. The length of time the

stain is allowed to remain on the floor, to some extent,

will determine the degree of color tone. Use clean rags

and wipe up the excess material left on the surface

of the flooring. Repeat the application and wiping

process, working parallel to the stained area across

the room. Be sure to overlap by one strip into previously

stained area and wipe the overlap well or else

an area that appears darker (a lap mark) can result.

NOTE: Do not allow stain/penetrating sealer to

dry before wiping. DO NOT allow water drops,

sweat, or bare hands and knees, etc. to come in

contact with the unstained and stained areas

or discoloration and imprints will result.

After completing the first coat allow to dry overnight

or longer, as necessary. Use a #1 steel wool pad or

white or brown fiber buffing pad on a floor buffer and

buff the floor. Clean, vacuum, and dust residue. (See

 If only stain was used, apply sealer

as the next step.

If the SEALER / WAX SYSTEM is the final finish,

apply a second coat of sealer and allow to dry. Neutral

color should be used if no additional colorant is

required. After drying, if rough to the touch, this

second coat should also be buffed with #1 steel wool

or a fiber pad, and the floors cleaned of residue. Paste

wax or liquid buffing wax is then applied and buffed

to a satin sheen with the buffing machine. (See

Protecting the Finish Page 9) To apply a thin coat of

paste wax place a walnut size glob of wax in an old

cotton athletic sock. Heat from the hand will melt the

wax as the pad is rubbed over the floor; let dry before buffing.

                                                                                                                         ®AHF-All Hardwood Floor Ltd™